Lovely is the hillside

It could be said that a landscape view provides a crucial turning point in Njál's saga. Gunnar, the reluctant warrior, is drawn into a cycle of violence which leads the Althing assembly to order him to go abroad for three years. Gunnar's friend, the wise Njál, warns him not to break this agreement and Gunnar promises not to. But as Gunnar is about to sail away from Iceland, the site of his farm makes him realise he cannot bear to depart. We know this will lead to his killing, which makes the scene all the more poignant. 

‘They rode towards the Markarfljot river, and then Gunnar's horse slipped, and he sprang from the saddle. He happened to be facing the hillside and the farm at Hlidarendi, and spoke: “Lovely is the hillside - never has it seemed so lovely to me as now, with its pale fields and mown meadows, and I will ride back home and not leave.”’ 

Another way in which the saga relates to landscape is through the places that became known for their association with the story, such as Bergþórshvoll, the farm where Njál himself becomes the victim of an escalating blood feud and is burned alive with his family. I have only been to Iceland once and had no time to visit these places, but was aware as we crossed the Markarfljot river in a minibus on our way to Vik that we had been passing through Njál Country. As I've mentioned before, Fiona MacCarthy’s William Morris biography describes his journey to Iceland where he delighted in encountering connections with the saga. 

'Here was Flosi's Hollow, the place where he and the hundred Burners tethered their horses before firing Njál's house. There was the ditch into which Kári Sölmundarson leapt, to douse himself, after leaping from the building in his blazing clothes. And nearby was the slope where he lay down to recover. They were told by the farmer who guided them around that, only recently, in the excavation of a site for a new parlour, a bed of ashes had been found buried deep in the ground.’

The unknown author of Njál's saga was, as translator Robert Cook says, fascinated by law, and many important 'courtroom' scenes take place at Thingvellir (Þingvellir). Towards the end of the story there is a legal battle (somewhat tedious) followed by an actual battle, shockingly taking place at the Althing, with men fleeing for safety across the Oxara river and hoping to reach shelter in the Almannagja gorge. This gorge is the meeting point of the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates and one of the most spectacular landscapes I have ever seen. After the battle, the two sides are reconciled at the Law Rock, the precise location of which is no longer known, because the geography of the rift valley has not been stable over the course of a thousand years. 

Almannagjá photographed by me in 2019